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Allaa-humma Inneee A’udhu-bika Min An Ushrika Bika Shay-awn Wa-ana A’lamu Bihee Wa- astaghfiruka Limaa Laaa A’lamu Bihee Tubtu ‘Anhu Wata-barraatu Mina-l Kufri Wash-shirki Wal-kidhbi Wal-gheebati Wal-bid’ati Wan-nameemati Wal-fawahishi Wal-buhtaani Wal-m’aasi Kulli-haa Wa-Aslamtu Wa-aqoolu Laaa Ilaaha Illa-llaahu Muhammadu-r Rasoolu-llah. Six kalima with audio and translation . The Kalimah is the essence of Islam. A true Muslim is one who is completely aware of the meaning of the Kalimah, proclaims it with sincerity and devotion, and acts and lives in accordance to its requirements. ... Kalma Tayyab: Laa ilaaha illal Lahoo Mohammadur Rasool Ullah. 2) Kalma Shaadat: Ashahado An ... No matter, whether we recite or listen it in Arabic, Urdu, English, roman, Hindi, audio, video or any other language. Mostly people download Kalma Book from the different Islamic websites or they listen Kalimas in audio or watch its videos. Mostly people search how to pronounce Kalma or even some of them don’t know what Kalma is? Download 6 Kalimas in Arabic with Urdu & English Translation. six kalimas in pdf, mp3, 3rd kalma, 4th kalma, 5th kalma, 6th kalma. 6 kalma in islam for kids Have any questions? +1 (786) 406-6025 Audio Book A Textbook of Hadith Studies Mohammad Hashim Kamali Shield of Honour Nouman Ali Khan Sunan An-Nasa'i (6 Vol. Set) Imam An-Nasai Syrian Uprising: Story of Zainab Poem End of Times Uthman Lateef Dajjal The False Messiah Ibn Kathir Never Shed Your Leaves Tariq Mehanna Freemixing Murtaza Khan Towards a Happy Marriage Salim al-Amry The ... 6 Kalima in Islam – Arabic Recitation. 4 Kalima state the tawheed of Allah and glorify His different amazing attributes. The 6 Kalimas are: 1st Kalima: Tayyab Kalma is one of the pillars in islam, its mandatory for every muslim to read, understand and believe on the kalmas of islam. Kalma is the very first thing which differenciate the muslim from others, because the beliver of kalma must know that who create him, who created this world, and form whom this world is created, and Prophet Muhammad (SAWW) is the last messanger of Allah who own all the ... Download 6 Kalma With Audio(Mp3) APK 1.3.8 for Android. Six Kalimas With Audio(Mp3) in beautiful voice, With transliteration. 1) Kalma Tayyab: Laa ilaaha illal Lahoo Mohammadur Rasool Ullah. 2) Kalma Shaadat: Ashahado An Laa ilaaha illal Laho Wa Ash Hado Anna Mohammadan Abdo Hoo Wa Rasoolohoo. 3) Kalma Tamjeed: Subhanallahe Wal Hamdulillahe Wa Laa ilaha illal Laho Wallahooakbar. Wala Haola Wala Quwwata illa billahil AliYil Azeem. 6 Kalma With Audio(Mp3) is an Android Education App that is developed by AtoZapps and published on Google play store on May 31, 2017. It has already got around 100,000+ downloads so far with an average rating of 4.0 out of 5 in play store.
The ultimate RL settings guide for the competitively oriented player
2020.09.23 21:07 Ungoliant0The ultimate RL settings guide for the competitively oriented player
Disclaimers & Mentality
This is a very broad topic that doesn't have just one best answer. I'm going to mention the most popular options (the meta) and you can decide for yourself or research further.
Changing settings can be difficult at first, if you're used to other settings. What feels natural at first, might not be the optimal settings for you. A general rule of thumb - experiment around the meta, but eventually settle and develop muscle memory. Don't let yourself be held back by lackluster settings. It is better in the long run to make a change.
This guide is aimed towards the competitively oriented reader that values performance above all else - fancy graphics, immersion, etc. Otherwise, just use whatever you want. You don't need a guide for that XD. So I'm going to skip saying "do this only if you're competitively oriented" and "in my opinion, its best if...", etc.
If you're a 2k SSL and your settings work for you, I don't presume to tell you what to do (although I believe we could all benefit from changes and improvements at any level). This guide is meant for newer players or players that only recently decided to value performance. If you find any mistakes or things I've forgotten to include, please let me know.
For every section, I'm going to give a TL;DR, and then provide an explanation.
I define competitively oriented as someone determined to improve, that values his performance over immersion, graphics, etc, rather than someone that actively competes in RL. According to this definition, a bronze player that wants to improve is in my book a competitively oriented player.
This is an updated version of my previous settings guide. Updated to current 2020 meta. I keep this updated as the meta changes.
If you're a completely new player, and intimidated by this long guide, here's a decent quick settings guide. Remember there's TL;DR for every section. You don't have to read the explanations.
TL;DR: Use competitive settings. Even if your monitor is only 60Hz, [240FPS] is not wasted. Enable Steam FPS counter and make sure you get stable 240FPS (without drops). If your PC can't handle that, just cap FPS as high as possible, while still stable.
Disable VSync (adds input lag) and all graphics effects except transparent goalposts.
Put everything on highest performance except render quality.
Play on fullscreen as otherwise, the desktop's VSync might apply, and that adds input lag.
This video by Rocket Science shows 120 and 240 FPS caps are most consistent.
TL;DR: Disable camera shake. Use [100, -4, 270, 0.4]. Some 2020 camera statistics. Disable camera shake. The vast majority of pros use FOV . The meta used to be height/angle [110/-3], but these days there's a shift to all combinations of height [90-110] and angle [(-5)-(-3)]. Distance is usually [260-280], with  being the most used. Stiffness [0.4-0.55]. Swivel speed at [4-6] and transition speed at [1-1.3].
Although, somewhat of a niche in pro play, there is still something to be said for high stiffness, as a setting that is completely different than the meta. Although Lethamyr has since moved on to lower stiffness, some pros are using high stiffness (flakes, Yukeo, Kuxir97). If you're interested, research this further on your own, as it is not common enough for me to say whether this is a good idea or not (although, it is certainly viable). If you find a dynamic camera (lower stiffness) confusing on quick turns or just in high-speed situations, consider trying high stiffness.
Some 2020 deadzone Statistics. A nice animation that explains how deadzone works, using HalfwayDead's utility. The deadzone is the yellow area around the axes, and the red area around the origin. Values inside the yellow area are interpreted as on the axes, and values inside the red around are interpreted as (0,0). The larger the deadzone, the easier it is to perform straight-line movements - forwards, backward, sideways. The lower it is, the more responsive your controls are, which is especially important for mechanics that require micro-adjustments, like dribbling, etc. The general rule of thumb is: have it as low as you can without getting stick drift (car steering while not touching the controller) and feeling like you can't make straight-line movements. Dodge deadzone you should at least increase until you stop getting accidental backflips. It should also be high enough for a decent fast aerial. Set it to around [0.5-0.7]. Don't get used to a lower dodge deadzone, as it has not much effect on anything else important, but will slow your fast aerial if not high enough, as it won't allow for enough tilt during your fast aerial.
TL;DR: Use the default input shape (cross and what I call circle, mean the same thing) with [1.1-1.6] sensitivity (both aerial and steering).
Sensitivity is a linear multiplication of your input. For example, if you have [sensitivity: 2] and your stick is at (0.2, 0.3) it is interpreted as (0.4, 0.6) (for the sake of simplicity, I'm ignoring deadzones here of course). Sensitivity is used for two things:
Reaching values faster - it takes time to move the stick. Higher sensitivity means you have to make smaller physical movements to get the same effect. This is a trade-off between high and low sensitivity: being able to reach high values faster but having more room for error; vs. ease of being more accurate.
Reaching the full range of motion - due to the controller's stick housing being round (a circle), it physically limits the stick from reaching the full range of motion (a square). Think of a circle of diameter 1 inside a square with edges of the same length. This means some movements close to the diagonals. This issue is minor compared to 1, as it might not even be necessary to reach the entire range of motion, as using pure diagonals can be rare. Some players would prefer to take the hit of being unable to reach 100% on the diagonal, for the benefit of increased accuracy. Also, having airroll left/right completely nullifies this issue.
Some 2020 sensitivity Statistics. The meta is shifting towards higher sensitivity values it seems, with mechanically gifted players such as jstn. and AztraL using [~1.8-2.0]. Other pros choose lower sensitivities, like Flakes' [1.0], JKnaps's [1.1] and Fairy Peak!'s [1.2]. And most others with values between [1.1-1.6]. First, try low values [1.0-1.2] for a while, then try high values [1.4-1.7] for a while. See what worked better, and then make changes in small increments towards 1.3. Eventually, see what feels best. Try to make changes to sensitivity if you feel like you're hitting a slump. If you feel slow/rigid try to increase it. If you feel it's too difficult to make controlled movements, decrease it. As this is dependant on your controller, and every controller is different, the sensitivity value does not tell the entire story. You need to try for yourself what values suit you. Keep in mind though that what might be currently comfortable, does not necessarily mean it is the best setting for you. Keep an open mind and experiment, but eventually settle on something and start building that muscle memory.
Input Shape - [Circle] (default) vs. [Square]
TL;DR: Don't use [square]. Including this for the sake of completeness. I would not recommend using it these days as we have better options. Unless you're already used to it, and even then I would recommend you try without it. As can be seen in the list of deadzone settings for notable players, about 6% are using [square] input shape nowadays (listed as deadzone shape, which is a somewhat misleading term. Also instead of circle input shape, they call it cross deadzone, which is something else entirely, and is used by everyone without option to change it, and nor should they). Therefore, according to the meta, it is somewhat obsolete/niche, for several possible reasons that range from being less intuitive/natural/linear (is skewed around the diagonals) to practical reasons for pro players (less relevant to us regular folks) such as requiring 3rd party applications to enable. [Square] input shape is another way to reach the full range of motion, by altering your input shape from a circle to a [square]. More precisely, (again, simplifying) by linearly mapping your values to a shape of a [square]. This method used to be popular in the early days of RL, before we had in-game sensitivity settings. While overall, arguably, not a good setting to use, it does have some benefits, such as easier halfflips. But that is due to [square] altering the input the game receives and the way RL treats flip cancels. Easier halfflips can be achieved using airroll left/right. How to enable: it's preferable to disable steam controller configurations as using it can add input lag (in a later video, Rocket Science shows even more input lag than the 1ms mentioned in the deadzone video). This is a possible issue with any 3rd party program, even ones that are currently tested to not add any input lag could always become worse down the line. I would personally avoid using any 3rd party programs. If you want to use [square] input shape, you should use DS4Windows or Durazno2 rather than enabling Steam controller config.
This preset works for airroll left/right as well (more on that soon). These are just one possibility. The important part is that you should not be hindered by your controls. Certain mechanics require being able to use all or some combination of boost, jump, powerslide airroll, oand airroll left/right. Bad controls will prohibit these movements. Viable controls will allow them. There are RLCS winners that use claw-grip, many pros use default settings, Rizzo uses his left stick to drive forward/backward, there are pros that use the keyboard (Yukeo, Fruity, Torsos). Find what works out best for you, making sure you can easily reach boost/jump/powerslide/airroll/airroll-LR simultaneously and don't be afraid of experimenting (but eventually settle on something). Move boost from the right thumb to a designated finger. It makes sense, conceptually, having boost near drive-forward. Having Airroll/Powerslide with a designated finger, together, also works well, as they are mostly mutually exclusive (one is used in the air, the other is not), and represent similar concepts. The most used action of those that are left is ballcam toggle, so move that to somewhere accessible. Air roll right/left could be less accessible, since they are only needed for tornado spins, and perhaps half flips if you can't do these using air roll.
Lately, we've seen a shift in the meta, with more and more players starting to include airroll left/right. Is this viable? The answer is yes, and sometimes can be superior - from allowing certain mechanics that are impossible without them (tornado spins, and the somewhat niche stalls, and certain niche flicks); to allowing fastemore precise aerial maneuvers and takeoff. Aztral, an example of a notable mechanically gifted player using Left/Right. Learn to use both airroll and airroll left/right. There are uses for both. If you want to start including air roll left/right in your gameplay, you'd have to find a way of making them more accessible than in the airroll-centric suggested preset, while still having jump and powerslide accessible. This is a more difficult task, as you've just added another button needed, or two if you want to use both. Using a controller with paddles (like the expansive Scuf, XBOX elite, or the (cheaper) new DS4 back attachment) is a possible solution. If you do use paddles, just use the Airroll-Centric keybinds, and set airroll-left/right to the paddles. Otherwise, with a regular controller, you would have to use claw-grip or fat-finger using your thumb. Fat-fingering goes against the principles mentioned earlier of having a designated finger for each action, but we only have so many fingers. It is possible to fat-finger between X, circle, and square. It's more difficult to reach triangle though, so use the least priority keybind there. Claw-grip is also not ideal and might take some time getting used to, though it is a decent solution that allows to, relatively easily, reach every button. With claw-grip you could use the Airroll-Centric keybinds, or if you want to emphasize Left/Right even further, a possible preset is Aztral's controls (all default except [L1/R1] with [Airroll Left/Right]).
Yukeo's keybinds. These controls maintain the principles previously mentioned. Every important action has a designated finger. Note how even using KBM, Yukeo still finds a use for separate airroll left/right keybinds. Set [Keyboard Input Acceleration Time] to 0 and [Aerial/Steering Sensitivity] to 2. Another possibility is using the keyboard without a mouse, especially if you don't have a gaming mouse with many buttons. Make a preset maintaining the principles mentioned before. Have a designated finger for every important action.
This part is of course assuming the recommendations are financially possible. I'm not telling anyone to get a 240Hz monitor instead of buying food. This is of course for you to decide. Some pros played on console, some used an old 60Hz laptop. Remember we're aiming towards optimality here.
Get a [144-240Hz] monitor. Preferably [240Hz], [1080p], [TN] for low 1ms response time. You don't have to use [G/Free-Sync] as they do add minimal input lag, and you don't notice tearings at these FPS levels anyway. Keep in mind such a monitor (240Hz) is specialized for RL, as you would probably not get close to 240FPS on AAA titles for example (unless you have a beast PC). Make sure the monitor is set to a 240Hz refresh rate in windows.
You also need a decent enough PC to support 240+ FPS on competitive video settings, while not overheating, though that shouldn't be too difficult, as RL is a relatively light game. Enable steam FPS counter, and make sure you're getting stable FPS.
If you use a controller, use a USB cable and NOT Bluetooth as it is more consistent. Even if you've heard the polling rate is better (more on that soon). The USB should be connected to the back of the PC (right into the motherboard's panel), rather than the front USB panel, as in many cases, the front USB hub can add input lag. The most popular options for controllers are the [DS4] and the [XONE] controllers. More, less cheaper, options are [SCUF], [XBOX elite], [Thrustmaster eswap pro]. The [DS4] controller is by far the most used options, both for legacy reasons (RL's prequel was a DS3 exclusive) and good reasons like a decent price, good durability, great polling rate out of the box, and benefit most from overclocking. I would recommend you give it a try. If you don't like the DS layout, use an [XONE] controller. Don't use older controllers like the DS3 and X360.
Overclock your controller to a polling rate of 1000Hz (like any proper gaming keyboard or mouse) to reduce input lag. Test whether it worked here (currently only works on Firefox). A more accurate tool. 1) open the program 2) press f2 to start logging and spin the analog stick in a circle fast 3) F2 to stop 4) enter 65536 in the cpi field 5) click plot 6) change plot type to frequency or interval to see the polling rate. If you want to use KBM, make sure you have proper gaming KBM with a 1000Hz polling rate.
Never use WIFI. Use an ethernet connection. Follow all of the steps on this guide (obviously according to your platform). Make sure you don't skip any of these, as each one can be critical (especially the ones at the end, regarding firewall, settings, port forwarding, etc).
Text Chat: if you find yourself getting tilted you can disable this. If you still want to be able to communicate during kickoff, BakkesMod has a nice feature called kickoff only chat.
Voice Chat: disable.
Input buffer: good connections should use STS, less ideal connections use CSTS.
The rest of the settings are not interesting (perhaps just set all those rates & limits to high).
Nameplate scale: just play with this and see how it works for you. I've seen most use [120-140%].
Nameplate mode: [always visible].
Colourblind mode: gives a high contrast borders to nameplates.
Some people can be distracted by non-relevant sounds. Gameplay volume is the only sound that can contribute to your gameplay, so have everything else off (unless of course, you get enjoyment and immersion out of the other settings). Some people play with sound entirely off. This comes with a cost, as they can't hear players jumping/boosting behind them, which can be invaluable information.
TAINPUT File Editting
Read about it here and here. This allows setting different deadzones for triggers, separate for the left, right stick (this is especially good if your deadzone is too low for right stick and causes the camera to drift), the X and Y axes (can be useful for stalls), setting multiple buttons to the same action and more.
Use it. At least to enhance your training. You can close it when playing if you prefer.
Other 3rd Party Programs
I would advise against it. As said disable steam controller configurations anyway. Both DS4Windows and Durazno2 were tested by Rocket Science to not add input lag, but I would still rather not use anything I don't have to (RL has native controller support). They both allow advanced controller customization if you must.
Bind everything to "Savage!", "Okay.", "What a save!" and "Take the shot!". huEHUehuEHUe Hopefully, this was helpful. Good luck!
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